Mont Blanc in 24hrs
The story of our climb.
We set of from camping les bossons and got our train to Saint Gervais Le Fayet from there we would get the mountaineers train to Nid d’Aigle initially booking the wrong one we waited in the town for 3 hours until 1200.
The train takes about 1 hour and we left the final stop at 2300m and heading towards the first hut Tete rouse sitting at 3100m the snow was coming down now and it took about 2:25 to reach the hut
Once at the hut we settled in boiled our water and made our dehydrated meals for dinner There were only 5 of us in the hut Me, Josh and Alex and a guide and his client Ryan. We chatted about the conditions out there and the guide asked if we’d come with him to break trail as the snow was deep and for a summit push we would have to work together. We agreed of course we all had the goal and a shared experience tops one alone. We got an early night although sleep was awful lots of farting, snoring and headaches.
Up at 0500 for some food ready to step off at 0630 together. The guide and Ryan didn’t wait and decided to just head back down. We wasn’t doing that yet and started to head up breaking trail across a notorious part of this route the grand couloir while the sun rose was a special experience for me. At one point I said “lads this is fucking everything I wanted it to be” I was in my element full of joy and energy.
We pushed on now to the upward scramble finding the snow buried cables it was slow going and for a while know what Friday (the next days) forecast was I started to think how would we descend even if we make it to the summit today?
I looking down at Josh and Alex said we can’t go no further getting down will be too much risk even if we make it. They immediately agreed we took a moment looked around and made the very awkward and slow going way down through the couloir and 2 others passed who had left from Gouter that morning for a summit and said they couldn’t snow was far to over a meter and avalanche risk was high. We all gladly looked at one and other knowing the decision made was the right one.
Now if you ask me a few years ago maybe even before TRI-M how turning around would have left me. I would have been chewing on it for days and weeks. This time I’m ok maybe it’s maturity or knowing deep down what I’m doing is completely and utterly for me and my life.
Something that’s difficult for many in the modern world.
Carrying on down we stopped at Tete Rouse hut for a hot drink and the staff laughed the boys that fart are back. Asking when the next train down is from Nid’d Aigulle they said 1310 it was now 1100 it took us 2 hours to get up here I knew we’d have a moment to enjoy the warm hot chocolate.
Kit back on rope coiled up and down we went reaching the station in 1hr 20min we sat down took our crampons off and had a brief reflection on the last 24hrs.
Mountaineering isn’t what you see on social media it’s a lot of unexpected twists and turns and challenges with nature especially at altitude. There are a few things I’d like you to take away from this
1- Patience it doesn’t matter if it’s a summit any thing or desire you have requires patience and that it’s self means work and discipline
2- Find your own way in a world that doesn’t often show honest low lights remember you are doing what you want with you life I hope and that will take unexpected downs tough ups and smooth sailing down
Adventure is the reflection of life and it does it without the noise we are filed with daily. It’s what the limitless project is about.
I watch the film here