Cosmiques Arête solo
Before you read the rest no I wouldn’t recommend doing this solo first time.
Since planning Mont Blanc the goal was always to do some alpine climbing prior to acclimatise. Unfortunately when the rest of my climb team arrived it was terrible weather!
After MB they had to go.
I read and I read up what’s possible solo now I have nobody to climb with and I kept being drawn to Cosmiques.
So the day I left Chamonix I committed 0925 Cable car to Aigulle du midi (ADM) and set off. I had done barely any Alpine climbing MB although was graft breaking trail it is just that a slog. Read here.
Lots of mountaineering and climbing here in the UK no snow, no exposure like this at 3600m+ high.
Stepping out of ADM through the alpinist gate and dam that ridge is narrow with 1000s of metres to fall each side. Slowly finding pace picked up and got onto the plateau heading towards Abri Simmond hut - start point of the ridge.
I had a strange question by a who I thought was a British guide at this point. Teaching some crevasse rescue drills.
'“Why have you got a rope?”
Those that know this ridge has 2 rappels and she was doing it too. Maybe they knew something I didn’t. Later finding out I definitely needed it.
I passed 3 groups as I went over the ridge and definitely the extra safety for my first time over this would have been welcomed. However I didn’t have it so figure it out and trusty ability it was.
Up the steep snow sections and chimney’s reaching the first abseil simple set up and went. It is closely followed by the second much longer 15m. This is when a partner comes in handy I wouldn’t have had to recoil all my rope which took time.
Heading south face around the large orange tower with rock that glowed with the sun. Up more snow cover gullies and there it was the talking point the crux slab graded 4c with massive exposure.
It has crampon grooves chiselled out sort of making it easier but I hadn’t really climbed on rock on crampons till now and the trust in them was weak purely not enough practice. Anyway got it done even if I did let it get in my head a little I was capable.
The route then takes you back onto the north side and you over look chamonix and can see ADM is close. It’s a bit of a scramble and the colder side.
Tried putting my new glove back on and dropped one gutted! Least it was just a glove.
Got to the top it flattened out and the crowds of tourists standing on the viewing platform taking photo some even cheer.
It’s not over through the final section and 10m bending old ladder up and over the barrier. “do not fuck this up”
Over I go and walk through towards the other side and rest on the barrier slumped. That was a challenge less physical and more mental thinking every step the practice, the exposure and the mix of climbings and skill.
What a fantastic way to finish my time in Chamonix. I may well see you this winter if not next year.
Watch the film here
